CurdNerds

Cato Corner Farm, located 30 miles southwest of Hartford in Colchester, CT, produces some of the best artisanal raw cow's milk cheeses in the country. Run by a mother-son team, the farm has 30 Jersey cows that are raised on pasture without the use of hormones or subtherapeutic antibiotics.

Hooligan, which is only one of the many different varieties of cheese made at the farm, is a treat for all the senses. A stinky washed-rind cheese with a delicious mushroomy flavor, it comes in wheels that are aged for 2-3 months and weigh roughly 1.5 lbs. The pink-orange rind is washed twice a week in a buttermilk-brine mixture and is marked with the imprints of the baskets in which the cheeses are moulded. Although it is not a multi-creme cheese, it definitely tends toward that kind of taste and texture, probably owing to the relatively high fat content of the Jersey cow milk.